The Shah e Cheragh contains the elaborate mirror glass mausoleum of the two brothers, who fled to Shiraz during one of many periods of persecution of Shia Muslims by followers of a different version of their imaginary friend.
The once simple toms of Mir Ahmed and Mir Mohammad have been transformed into elaborate structures, topped by beautiful onion shaped domes. This site is an important pilgrimage site, and security is enforced. No photographs are permitted, so we could enjoy the relaxed peace of the wide courtyard of the complex undistracted by the need to seek out the perfect photo. Women must don a chador, which the women in the booth help to affix, but my wife Minuk found that the damn thing kept trying to fall off.
We first entered the Shrine of Mir Mohammad, at the rear of the courtyard, separate entrances provided for ladies and gentlemen. We parted, and wandered inside around the mirrored maze of the interior, finding the tomb at it's centre. It is very relaxed inside, folk sit on the carpets either talking quietly or praying. Everyone wants to touch or be near the tomb itself, inside a metal screen.
Outside again, to the larger shrine of Mir Ahmed, with its twin minarets, where the experience was similar, though busier. The stricture on photos not extending to those taken on mobile phones!
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